Natural California Wine (Bon Appétit)




California is chill, California wines used to not be chill. Stogy, predicable, and out-of-touch, the reds were yuuuuge affairs meant wash down filet mignon; the Chardonnays evoked images of creamy leather Maserati seats and the Saks Fifth Avenue perfume department, circa 1980. But hey, there's a new school of winemakers in town. They're nimble and funny. They experiment. They tossed out the old rules, and make lighter, exciting, excitable wines that come in all shapes, sizes, and colors. I traipsed around Northern California with a polaroid camera because I mean why not right to visit this new school of winemakers.