Norway A five day cycling trip, from Tromsø to Harstad, near the Lofoten Islands, very North, as cold as is it scenic. even in August. Thousands of years ago, the earth erupted out of the ocean here; made craggy, peaked masses of land that shoot out like arrow tips from watery fjords, the mountaintops sharp and dark, the foothills homey and desolate, the lands seeming to roll on into infinity. We rode around, humbled, camping each night along the way, subsisting on a diet of bread, Sørlands chips, Nøkkel cheese, and bananas.