Otherworldly. Bright red clay and orange dust and sage and fennel and cardamom. Masala chai and fragrant rose petals. Clear morning light and cool blue luminous night. Weaving wheezing motorcycles and sacred white cows. Women in magnificent, spotless, iridescent saris everywhere, on the streets, in the fields, hanging out of buildings. A tremendous crush of people and traffic and bustle and impossible condensed-ness that spurs all five senses at once.